SPF: Why you need to wear it all year round

As the cold winter days start to roll in, here's a reminder of why you need to keep on wearing SPF.

Did anyone else hate wearing suncream when they were little? If you're like me then the answer is yes, and the thought of wearing it all year round... well that would seem like a nightmare! But here's the thing, you really do need to wear it all year round. That's right, even in winter, because harmful UV rays still penetrate winter clouds. In fact, up to 80% of the sun's rays can penetrate winter clouds, no matter how thick they look. Keep reading to find out about UV rays, what SPF does, and which SPF sunscreen may be best for you.

UV Rays

There are three types of UV rays, UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVC rays are absorbed by the atmosphere, and have little to no affect on us. Some UVB rays are also absorbed by the atmosphere. In fact, only 5% of the UV rays that reach the ground are UVB rays, meaning 95% of the UV rays that reach the ground are UVA rays. However, there are man-made sources of all three types of UV ray, which can also cause severe damage to us.

UVA rays are present throughout the year, and can penetrate clouds and glass/windows, as well as the deeper layers of our skin, resulting in premature ageing and an increased risk of skin cancer. While UVA rays have been associated with some skin cancers, their main effect is prematurely ageing our skin, resulting in visible side effects like wrinkles. UVA rays tend to have an immediate effect on our skin, such as immediate tanning and sunburn. Because UVA rays can penetrate glass/windows, you should wear SPF even when you are staying in for the day, driving in the car, or working in the office.

On the other hand, UVB rays vary in intensity and season, specifically, they have greater intensity on sunny days during the summer. Unlike UVA rays, UVB rays cannot penetrate glass, and are more likely to be absorbed by clouds. UVB rays damage the more superficial layers of our skin, meaning they can damage our skin cells directly. UVB rays are the main rays which cause sunburn, and are thought to cause most skin cancers. However, they can also contribute to prematurely ageing skin. The effects of UVB rays are usually delayed, such as delayed tanning, sunburn and blistering.

Multiple factors can affect the intensity of UV rays. UV rays are at their strongest between 10am and 4pm, as during this time the sun's rays have less distance to cover, making them more powerful. Despite UV exposure being higher in Spring and Summer because of the higher angle of the sun, UV rays can still affect us during Autumn and Winter, due to the UVA rays being able to penetrate the clouds. Location (latitude and altitude) also impacts on the intensity of UV rays. UV rays are at their most intense in areas on or near the equator, as they have less distance to travel before reaching the ground. UV rays are more powerful at higher altitudes, again, because they have less distance to travel. The ozone layer provides some protection from UV rays, however, as pollutants and greenhouse gases have caused the ozone layer to become thinner, the protection it provides decreases and UV intensity increases. As previously mentioned, clouds absorb some UV rays, preventing them from reaching the ground. However, this is dependent on the type of cloud. For example, darker rain clouds may absorb more UV rays than high, thin clouds. Finally, reflection can also affect the intensity of UV rays. UV rays reflect off surfaces like snow, water, sand and pavements, increasing their intensity.

So what is SPF?

SPF stands for sun protection factor. The SPF number tells you how long the sun's UVB rays would take to burn your skin, if sunscreen is applied as directed, compared with the amount of time without sunscreen. For example, if you used SPF 30 as instructed, it would take you 30 times longer to burn than if you used no sunscreen. SPF reduces overall UV exposure and lowers your risk of skin cancer, skin precancers and sun damage. Daily use of SPF 15 can reduce your risk of developing squamous cell carcinoma by around 40%, and lower your melanoma risk by 50%, showing just how important wearing SPF is. SPF should always be the last step of your skincare routine, after your serum, moisturiser or oil, and should be used before primer if applying makeup.

Types of SPF

There are two types of SPF, chemical and physical/mineral. Both reduce short and long-term skin damage and reduce the risk of sunburn and skin cancer, the only difference is how they do it. Both have their pros and cons, but they offer equal protection.

Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays. Due to their formula, they tend to be easier to apply, minimising the stickiness and white cast-off.

Physical/mineral sunscreens act like a shield and reflect the sun's UV rays. They often feel sticky when applied, and leave a white cast-off.

Which SPF is best for my skin type?

Regardless of your skin type or tone, your SPF needs to be a broad-spectrum sunscreen, as this blocks out both UVA (ageing) and UVB (burning) rays. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends a sunscreen which is SPF 30 or higher, reapplied every two hours. SPF should definitely be reapplied every two hours in winter, as the harsh conditions actually erode your sunscreen even faster than in the summer.

You can choose between sunscreens for dry skin, oily skin, acne-prone skin and sensitive skin. Gone are the days of sticky, greasy sunscreens which leave a white cast-off on darker skin tones. Formulas have been hugely improved, and now don't seem that bad to use. In fact, I quite enjoy applying SPF now.

If you have particularly dry skin, you should choose a sunscreen that contains hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or ceramides.

If you have oily skin, you should look for sunscreens that have a matte finish. Lightweight gel sunscreens may also be better for you, as they feel less heavy if you tend to get shiny throughout the day.

If you have sensitive skin, professionals recommend choosing a physical/mineral sunscreen rather than those with chemical ingredients, as chemicals are more likely to irritate your skin. Your sunscreen should also be fragrance-free, as this may also cause irritation.

If you have acne-prone skin, you should look for sunscreens which are oil-free, are full of natural ingredients, or labelled as non-comedogenic (meaning they won't clog your pores).

If you have a medium-to-dark skin tone, chemical sunscreens may be better for you, as they apply more clearly, while physical/mineral sunscreens often leave a white cast-off.

Best SPFs

There are plenty of SPFs out there, but here are some that are recommended by the professionals. I have not tried any of these sunscreens, so if you do decide to try them, do your research and see if they are the best sunscreen for you.

Recommended for dry skin

Aveeno Protect + Hydrate Face Sunscreen Lotion SPF50 ~ £12.23:

This SPF is oil-free, hypoallergenic, noncomedogenic, and contains colloidal oatmeal to hydrate the skin.

Recommended for oily skin

Ren Clean Screen Mattifying Face Sunscreen SPF30 ~ £30:

This all-natural SPF formula contains oil-absorbing rice starch to keep oil/shine under control.

Recommended for sensitive skin

Vanicream Sunscreen Sport Broad Spectrum SPF35 ~ £18.40:

This SPF was specifically formulated for sensitive skin. It is fragrance-free, and free of other irritants such as dyes, lanolin, paragons and preservatives, to name a few.

Recommended for acne-prone skin

Dermalogica Oil Free Matte SPF30 ~ £46.50:

This SPF is specially formulated for problem skin, and helps prevent shine on oily, breakout-prone skin, without causing irritation.

Recommended for medium-to-dark skin tones

Black Girl Sunscreen SPF30 ~ $18.99:

Made by women of colour for people of colour, this SPF dries completely clear, leaving no white residue.

Recommend for all skin types/tones

EltaMD UV Clear Facial Sunscreen SPF 46 ~ £31.45:

Designed for individuals with rosacea, hyper-pigmentation and acne, this clear, fragrance-free SPF is recommended for all skin types and tones, and contains niacinamide to reduce sebum (oil), whilst providing light moisture for the skin,

My recommendation

Kylie Skin Broad Spectrum SPF40 Face Sunscreen ~ $28:

My first choice for facial sunscreen is the Kylie Skin broad spectrum SPF 40 face sunscreen. As well as being broad spectrum, this sunscreen has an SPF on 40, protecting my skin 40 times longer than if I wasn't wearing any SPF. It is like a gel, and has no white cast-off, making it a perfect facial SPF. It's now greasy, and mattifies, so it's great to wear under your makeup. Currently this SPF only ships to US addresses, but if you are able to obtain a US shipping address, like I have, then you can get it shipped to that address by Kylie Skin, and from that address to anywhere in the world, by a shipping company.